Conspiracy on Malta?
by Elyn Aviva
We were on Malta, a tiny island at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, within sight on a clear day of Sicily and Mount Etna, and we were confused.
Since our first day on the island, Gary (my husband) and I had been experiencing generalized confusion. For example, we had been told that everyone spoke English—after all, Malta had been an English colony for over 150 years—but street signs were unpronounceable, and our taxi driver didn’t seem to understand a word we said. He replied to our frantic queries in something that sounded like a mixture of Arabic and Italian. And it turns out it was. Sort of. Maltese is a Semitic language, brought by Phoenician settlers 3000+ years ago, so it sounds vaguely Arabic. And because Italy has had such a pervasive influence on Malta—in part because of proximity, and in part because for decades the only television channels available were Italian—Italian words and cuisine are prevalent.
But our linguistic confusion was superficial. Much more confusing were the temples, the fat ladies, and the cart ruts. We had come to Malta to see the massive Neolithic stone temples, recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. Some of them date back 5,500 years—or maybe 10,000 or 12,000 years, depending on whom you believe. Ggantija, on Malta’s tiny neighbor island Gozo, is thought to be the second oldest temple in the world, after Göbekli Tepe in Turkey. It predates the pyramids by millennia. Some writers believe the Maltese temples are oriented to astrological alignments that existed 12,000 years ago, not 5,500—and might even have been built by extraterrestrials.
And then there are the “fat lady” statues. Huge or tiny, pottery or stone, headless or with heads, the ancient fat lady statues have been found all over Malta. Usually, a short, pleated skirt modestly covers their obese hips and thunder thighs. Their balloon-like calves end in tiny pointed feet. A replica of one immense fat lady statue still guards the Tarxien temple. Originally 8 feet high, only the lower half has survived, nearly as wide as it is high. The 5,000-year-old original is in the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta.
The fat lady statues are peculiar, to say the least. Some have holes for the insertion of heads, which makes you wonder whether they had different heads for different occasions—or to represent different deities. But most peculiar of all is that they are called fat lady statues. Many of them are flat chested. They could just as well have been called fat man statues or gender-neutral. But people get ideas, and often these ideas have more to do with dogma than with observation.
;)
At one point, certain modern goddess-worshippers decided that Malta had been the center of a Mediterranean-wide fertility cult of the Earth Mother. Many things, including the curvaceous shape of the temples, were interpreted from a female-deity perspective. Maybe that’s why the statues were named “fat ladies,” even when they have no apparent breasts, or when the top half is missing.
The statues are just one puzzle out of many on Malta. It’s as if someone is trying to hide what is there, to deflect attention so you won’t notice what you actually observe. I’m not a fan of conspiracy theories, but on Malta I began to wonder…
For example, one of the iconic fat ladies—this one a delicate, 4.7”-long pottery figure wearing an ankle-length dress, lying on its side—was discovered in a pit in Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. Hal Saflieni is a three-story-deep underground complex of halls and chambers carved out of rock, complete with lintel-topped doorways. It is the only excavated underground temple in the world and was discovered by accident by construction workers in 1902. They immediately hid their find and continued building a house over it. But truth will out, at least sometimes, even on Malta, and soon an archeological investigation began. Unfortunately, the field notes were lost before they could be published—along with many of the artifacts—so much that is known today is the result of conjecture, later excavations, and fantasy.
The Hypogeum (the word means “underground” in Greek) resembles a subterranean temple, complete with 32 rooms of different sizes, some of which are elaborately painted with ochre or decorated with geometrical designs. The oldest level, closest to the surface, dates to 3600-3300 BCE (Before Common Era). The next level down dates to 3300-3000 BCE, and the lowest level, 35 feet below ground level, is dated at 3150 -2500 BCE.
The underground complex includes rooms that have been named the Main Chamber, the Holy of Holies, the Decorated Room, and the Oracle Room, which produces resonating acoustical effects if you make very low toning sounds. There is a chamber in the lowest level that is reachable by seven stairs that end abruptly some distance above the floor of the pit. The official audio guide suggests that this bottom chamber with the seven steps ending in midair was a trap for grave robbers. Hmmm.
The official audio guide also informed us that the Hypogeum may have begun as a sanctuary but was soon turned into a burial ground. The bodies of over 7,000 individuals were reportedly dug out of the dirt during initial excavations. According to this scenario, as the deceased Maltese filled up the upper level, surviving Maltese dug out more stone and dug down through the knee-high dirt and decaying bodies to construct more rooms and deeper levels for their dead.
It doesn’t take long to realize the unlikelihood of this scenario. But never mind. It’s equally hard to imagine that the dead, who were so unceremoniously deposited in the dirt, would have been interested in acoustical effects, painted ceilings, and a Holy of Holies with an altar. But you never know. Anything seems possible on Malta.
But back to the 5,000-year-old Sleeping Lady. The audio guide informed us that she represents a dead person, lying on her side on a carefully sculpted bed, and is proof that the Hypogeum was a necropolis. On the contrary, I thought she looked like a sleeping fat lady—and her presence in the underground sanctuary strongly suggests that the Hypogeum was used as a place of dream incubation. We know from classical sources that dream incubation (the process of going into a dark, isolated space such as a cave, under the supervision of specialist priests) was a standard practice in ancient times. People sought healing, guidance, or insight through contact with the Divine, achieved in a dreamlike, altered state of consciousness.
When I did more research, I found that some experts do indeed think that the Sleeping Lady is neither dead nor a goddess but is, instead, engaged in dream incubation—and that the Hypogeum was an initiatic incubation temple. Either the official audio guide was a product of massive incompetence or it was intentionally trying to steer us away from a deeper understanding of the Hypogeum and the Sleeping Lady. At any rate, there’s an official story and they’re sticking with it.
And then there are the prolific prehistoric “cart ruts” found on the island, notably at Naxxar, San Gwann, and Clapham Junction. Yes, cart ruts: series of more or less parallel, more or less deep, channels cut into the limestone bedrock, sometimes extending for a mile or more. They’re called cart ruts, and the official story is that they were worn by carts carrying stone from quarries to temples.
But it is unlikely that that’s what they are, given that there’s no evidence of the wheel or cart in prehistoric Malta. Some ruts stop at the edge of cliffs; some run at an angle of 45°; others are anything but parallel; few are found in relationship to quarries and temples; and single ruts have been found in the water around the island. So why call them cart ruts? Is this just a case of mistaken nomenclature? Or it is another Maltese example of intentional misdirection? As I said, I’m not a conspiracy theorist, but on Malta it is hard not to become suspicious of the official line.
;)
The longer we stayed on Malta, the more confused we became. Finally, we simply gave up trying to figure anything out. Malta is a place to experience, not to analyze. And there are amazingly powerful places to experience—including Calypso’s cave, St John’s Co-Cathedral, with its over-the-top décor and gorgeous Caravaggios, and the paired Neolithic temples Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. In 2001, 60 large stones at Mnajdra were knocked down and some broken, possibly by vengeful Maltese hunters who had been ordered to removed their bird-blinds from the Neolithic temple walls. But that’s another story.
Author's Note: Access to the Hypogeum is limited to 80 people per day. Although a few tickets are available the day before, it is highly advisable to reserve tickets online months in advance. Contact www.heritagemalta.org. For more information on dream incubation, read Peter Kingsley’s book, In the Dark Places of Wisdom. For an alternative view of Maltese prehistory, read Francis Xavier Aloisio’s Islands of Dream – The Temples of Malta – Hidden Mysteries Revealed.
Elyn Aviva is a writer, fiber artist, and transformational traveler. Currently living in Girona (Catalonia), Spain, she is fascinated by pilgrimage and sacred sites. Her PhD in anthropology was on the modern Camino de Santiago in Spain. Aviva is author of a number of books on pilgrimage and journey, and she is co-author with her husband, Gary White, of “Powerful Places Guidebooks.” The most recent one is Powerful Places in Ireland; Powerful Places in Wales is forthcoming this fall. To learn more about Elyn or her publications, go to www.pilgrimsprocess.com, www.powerfulplaces.com, and www.fiberalchemy.com.
16 Comments
Reader Comments (16)
Wow! How do you ever FIND these fascinating places, Elyn? Another place on the bucket list, for me!
This is a fine example of history sleuthing. It's also engaging and accessible. We should've all had teachers so capable of brdiging time and place.
Archeologists are people and many of them bring their religious biases to what they see....and what they don't want to see. Breasts or not, the statues have a very YIN, feminine quality to them, and if a man looked like that, we would say that he is effeminate. The sleeping lady is very beautiful and looks like a landscape. I read about a doctor once who complained that the Venus of Willendorf was seriously headed for diabetes and heart disease. He had a hard time letting go of his modern preoccupation with obesity. When food was scarce, heavy people were most likely revered, judging from the numerous heavy statues in prehistoric times.
I like the way your article makes us question what we are told by the authorities. When traveling, it is nice to just observe and see what stands out.
Can I just say, that to me, the ladies look like Grand Mothers and the temple, a big vagina. Sorry
Thanks, Paul. Malta is a fascinating place--full of conflicting stories and lots of mystery!
Jan, you might be right about the temples--at least some of them. They are quite unusual, with several lobe-like, rounded rooms off of a central corridor (more or less). I think they look like reclining "fat people" statues. The figurines are usually headless (perhaps they had interchangeable heads for different occasions), and Mnajdra South temple, for example, is constructed with two large lobes, two smaller lobes above, and no head…. And the entrances are like the tiny feet....
Super article, Elyn. So glad I wasn't the only one somewhat confused. But I have to disagree with you about the figures-
goddesses. Headless or breastless, they seem very feminine to me. We know that some of the objects & giant heads have been removed from the museums, so why not try to lead the general observer astray? Or is it more the case that they really don't know or understand what they've got there?
I think your conclusion that Malta is a place to experience, not to analyze is probably the best answer.
Certainly the mystery of the Hypogeum will linger on, lending itself to many theories.
Thanks for taking me back there for a while.
Thanks for all the comments! I posted a response earlier but it seems to have vanished into the ether. Jan, you may be onto something. I personally felt that many of the temples--especially Mnajdra (south)--were in the shape of reclining "fat people"--two lobe-like rooms on either side of a central passage, no "head," and the entrances like tiny "feet." We had a grand time, didn't we, Wendy, with Great Mystery Tours and Freddy Silva as our guide. Maybe the figures are eunuchs? We are certainly culturally conditioned to think that kind of ample body shape, especially hips and thighs, is female, but maybe that's just our cultural conditioning. After all, many of them clearly don't have breasts, unlike more familiar ancient representations of the feminine....
Interesante reflexión sobre las falsedades de la historia relatada. Esto es un ejemplo del aforismo mediático "no dejes que la realidad estropee una buena noticia", aunque sospecho que la "verdad" tal como apuntas tú es mucho más interesante que la "verdad" oficial. Muy interesante y siempre genial, Elyn.
Love it, Piedad--"Don't let reality ruin a good story!" But as you point out, in this case the "truth" (whatever that is) is much more interesting than the official "truth." So why do they stick to it? Of course, once you start reading the alternative histories and their versions of truth, you could end up with Malta as the location of alien landing sites and/or Atlantis. I'm sure I don't know. All I do know is that Malta's temples were some of the most powerful places I've ever been. Life changing.
My knowledge of Malta is restrict to the reading of a few pages found in Raimonde Reznikov's book: "Les Celtes et le Druidisme" at Dangles Publishers.
She writes:
"A cult dedicated to the "union of opposites" seems to have taken place in the sanctuary of Malta with "Steatopygia statues and erected phalluses representations; A cult to the Mother? May be not, these statues with enormous behind are deprived of breasts. It may have been a cult to positive and negative, as the discovery in the Hal Saflieni's sanctum sanctorum of a pair of goat horns suggests. Temples are widely decorated with goat symbols. From China to Germany goat is a symbol of electric phenomenon. The dog is often associated with the goat as it represents magnetism.
No document, either from Herodote, Hecate, nor Diodore give any evidence about the mysterious buildings. Sudenly around -3000 activity stopped around the temples. No trace of wars, invasions or natural disaster show anywhere. Around -2400 a different ethnic group settled on the islands. Was Malta the Island of Ogygia: the sacred island that kept secret the primeval traditions?"
(freely translated)
The fat ones could also well be androgynes or epicenes or eunuchs - who are in many cultures considered magical or shamanic - so I think Elyn's refusal to identify them is correct.
No comment on the Maltese cuisine, Elyn ? I remember a strange overbaked pasta dish... but in the 1990s it was very hard for me to find eateries catering for Maltese rather than English tourists.
Excellent article, Elyn! Can't wait for the Malta guidebook to come out!
My husband wants to know what is the most life-changing and powerful place you have experienced to date.
Once again, Elyn, you have managed to introduce me to another wonderful travel surprise. You do manage to find the most fascinating places, and your research and personal comments are delightful.
Thanks to all of you for your enthusiastic comments--I've tried to reply 2x but the reply doesn't show up--maybe the 3rd time will be a charm. The most life-changing and powerful place? Hmmm. Probably the 2 week silent retreat I went on a few years ago in upstate New York: the physical location was unimportant, the "powerful place" was silence and a deep interior journey.
Life-changing powerful places In the rest of the world--really hard to say. There are so many. Malta would be tops on my list at the moment, but at other times I would have said Cairn T, Loughcrew, Ireland; or maybe Rocamadour in southwestern France; or the Forest of Broceliande in Brittany; or Gop Hill in northern Wales, or the Isle of Iona, Scotland; or the experience of walking the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain, or of walking the French Route of St James from Le Puy en Velay to the Pyrenees--Conques is magical; or walking the labyrinth in Chartres Cathedral.... The list goes on. What is YOUR most powerful place? And your husband's? Elyn
Thanks Elyn.
( I guess, as you suggest, the primary locus for " powerful places " is interior - the external being felicitous, to a greater or lesser extent ).
All Best Wishes to you and Gary, Oliver ( Rugen ).
Thanks Elyn. Some interesting memories.
However you made no mention of the skeletons of the pigmy elephants and hippos?
Nor any comment about the 7,000-plus human skeletons being recorded as "10 ft giants".
A 'fact' which seems to imply they might have been the Sumerians fleeing from pre-Iraq/Iran whose recently discovered records tell of the Annunaki invasion; incorrectly recorded in Genisis. An invasion which mutated the pristine human race into the present sad slaves with 98% rubbish-DNA and entrophic Endoctrine systems.
A story for which David Icke has achieved a sell-out for his presentation in the huge London's Wembly Stadium tomorrow (Sat 27/10).
All these forecasted 'secrets-being-revealed ' are so stimulating when considering the prophecies for next December.
Very interesting articles and an excellent representation of your experiences on Malta. Malta is an inspiring place and so much so, I wrote a novel about Malta's mysterious, elongated skulls.
Knowing of your interest in such things, I think you will like it. Please take a look.
"Saints and Cynics" - Uncovering the mystery of Malta's elongated skulls - by Chris Bonici